The natural latex mattress guide: don’t fall for the 1cm marketing trick
The latex marketing problem
Here's something that'll make you mad: a retailer can put 1cm of fake latex in a mattress and legally call it a "latex mattress." I've seen it hundreds of times, and it's pure marketing BS.
The problem? Most people don't know what real latex actually is, so they can't tell they're being sold plastic with a latex sticker on it.
From someone who works with these materials all day, every day for over a decade, I can tell you the majority of "latex mattresses" out there are nothing of the sort. They're foam mattresses with a token amount of synthetic latex thrown in so the marketing department can use the word.
What is natural latex?
A lot of people think that latex is plastic or made from petroleum, when it's a completely natural material.
Natural latex is the milky liquid collected from rubber trees, grown mostly in Thailand, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Vietnam. Tappers cut a spiral groove into the bark, and the latex drips into a cup. It's a different fluid from the tree's sap, and the tree keeps producing it for decades without harm.
To turn it into a latex slab, the liquid is whipped into a foam, poured into moulds with metal pins running through them, and steam-cured. Those pins create the distinctive 10mm pincore holes you see in real Dunlop latex – they let heat penetrate evenly during the baking process. Funnily enough, this adds breathability to the finished foam.
Real latex, and what I use at Ausbeds, is 95-97% natural rubber and GOLS certified (the Global Organic Latex Standard – the strictest natural latex certification going). The remaining 3-5% are natural additives that make the liquid latex set properly during the baking process. Without them, tree sap would just stay liquid.
Fake latex is usually 60% polyurethane foam with a small amount of latex mixed in. It has 4mm pincore holes and feels nothing like the real thing.
How to spot fake latex foam
If you can see inside the mattress, look at the holes:
- Real Dunlop latex: 10mm holes (pencil-width)
- Synthetic blend: 4mm holes (pen-tip size)
Then ask how thick the latex layer is. If they say 8–12mm, that's a joke. Even if it were real latex, you'd never feel a benefit from a layer that thin.
The trick is simple. Make a mattress, drop 1cm of synthetic blend in it, slap a "latex mattress" label on. The customer has no clue what they're looking at, and the retailer charges a premium.
Why retailers use minimal latex
I'll be honest – I don't think retailers are evil. They're responding to business pressures.
Real natural latex is expensive and hard to source. When I order it, I have to:
- Order a full 20-foot container from overseas
- Wait 3 months for delivery (6 weeks pre-COVID)
- Store 200+ pieces in expensive Sydney warehouse space
- Work within fixed mould sizes
Polyurethane foam? I can order three sheets cut to spec and have them delivered in two days.
When retailers push manufacturers for lower prices, latex gets squeezed out. Most retailers and bed-in-a-box brands are drop shipping companies running on ads. When Casper went public in the US, the prospectus showed roughly 30% of their sale price was going to digital advertising. When you spend that much on ads, the materials get cheaper to compensate. The latex layer is one of the easiest ways to cut corners.
Dunlop or Talalay: which is inside your mattress?
Shopping for latex, you'll run into two manufacturing processes: Dunlop and Talalay. Both come from the same rubber tree. The difference is how the foam is made.
Dunlop is the original method, developed in 1929. The liquid latex is whipped into a foam, poured into a mould, and steam-cured in one go. Gravity pulls the mixture down as it cures, so the finished foam is slightly denser at the bottom. Heavier, firmer, more durable.
Talalay adds two steps. The mould is only partially filled, then vacuum-sealed so the foam expands to fill it evenly. It's flash-frozen to lock the cell structure before curing. The result is a lighter, fluffier, more consistent foam top-to-bottom. It costs significantly more to produce.
I use Dunlop in all my mattresses. It's more durable, holds its shape for decades, and I can't justify passing the Talalay price increase on to customers when the performance difference is marginal.
For the full breakdown – process, firmness, durability, price – see my Dunlop vs Talalay guide.
Does latex sleep hot?
Not if the mattress is built properly.
It's physics: more foam = more heat. Your body heat needs somewhere to go, and the thicker the comfort layer, the more heat gets trapped.
Latex has two things going for it. The natural open-cell structure lets air move through it, and the 10mm pincore holes give body heat multiple escape routes. It's one of the most breathable foams you can sleep on.
Here's the catch: a 25–30cm block of solid latex is still a lot of foam, even if it's the coolest foam going. That's why I use 5cm of latex on top of pocket springs. The springs underneath are mostly air, and nothing beats an air gap for cooling.
For the full breakdown on heat (memory foam comparison, covers, bedding, toppers), read my guide on whether latex mattresses sleep hot.
Latex done right.
Explore our range of locally made latex-over-pocket-spring mattresses – adjustable, durable, and built for real comfort.
Buying a natural latex mattress
If you actually want the benefits of natural latex (durability, elasticity, longevity), you have two legitimate options:
Option 1: Go big with latex
Get a mattress with at least 5cm of latex, ideally more. A 20cm slab of pure Dunlop latex will outlast almost anything on the market. Heavy, expensive, but it'll last 20+ years if looked after.
The catch? Heat retention. More foam = more heat. Latex is more breathable than memory foam thanks to those open pincore channels, but it's still a foam. The thicker the slab, the more body heat it stores.
The other issue is contour. With all-latex, the shoulders don't sink in enough for side sleepers. For proper contour, you need pocket springs chosen for your body weight.
Option 2: Quality hybrid (my preference)
5cm of real natural latex on top of quality pocket springs.
You get the durability and feel of latex where it matters (the comfort layer you're actually sleeping on) without the weight, heat, or price tag of a full latex slab.
This is why the current Cloud and Aurora use latex over springs.
Minimal foam for maximum cooling
More foam = more heat. I use the minimum. The latex is just there so you don't feel the springs underneath. When people ask what the coolest mattress is, I point at the spring unit. Below that 5cm of latex, you've got a structure that's mostly air.
Springs do the heavy lifting
The springs do the contour work. The latex is a buffer. In the Aurora, the latex moulds to the micro springs, which mould to the pocket springs, so shoulders and hips sink right in.
In the Ausbeds Cloud mattress, I use:
-
5cm natural Dunlop latex (97% rubber tree sap, 70 kg/m³ density)
-
3,200 (2 layers) micro springs (Queen) / 3,600 (King)
-
986 honeycomb pocket springs (Queen) / 1,160 (King), chosen for your weight
-
Total: 4,186 springs working together (Queen)
Proven durability
I've made identical mattresses where the only variable was the 5cm comfort layer – latex versus memory foam versus polyfoam. Latex had almost no issues. Memory foam had loads, especially around the hips. I pull apart old mattresses regularly. Memory foam is always knackered around the hip area, even worse than basic polyfoam. Latex destroys both in durability. Not even close.
One customer who switched from an all-latex setup told me: "I spent days trying to decipher what the layers were in the major companies mattresses, and hours laying on different mattresses. The one I liked the most was an $8,800 mattress... I took a chance with Ausbeds... within days my shoulder pain was gone and my neck pain is gone (side sleeper)." – Dan M., Aurora Queen
The bottom line
If someone's selling you a "latex mattress," make them prove it's real.
Three checks:
- Look at the pincore holes – 10mm for real Dunlop, 4mm for synthetic
- Ask how thick the layer is – minimum 5cm for any real benefit
- Ask yourself: heat-trapping foam slab, or latex where it matters on springs that contour to your body?
This is my opinion, of course. But I do this every day, and I hear the same stories over and over. Let me know how it goes :)
Visit the Gladesville showroom to feel the difference: Unit 3, 14 Tennyson Road, Gladesville NSW 2111.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is natural latex good for mattresses?
Yes, absolutely. Natural latex is one of the best mattress materials you can use, and I've been working with it for over a decade. Here's why I trust it more than any other comfort material.
Natural latex comes from rubber tree sap, 97% natural rubber from certified organic farms in Sri Lanka. It's tapped from rubber trees the same way maple syrup is collected, then processed into durable foam through the Dunlop method. This process has been refined since 1929, so we're talking about 95+ years of proven performance.
Does latex promote healthy sleep?
From a healthy sleep perspective, natural latex ticks all the right boxes. It's naturally resistant to dust mites without any chemical treatments. The material itself is hypoallergenic and breathable, creating a healthier sleep environment compared to synthetic materials. Our natural latex is GOLS certified (Global Organic Latex Standard), meaning it's organic from the rubber tree plantation to the finished layer.
Unlike polyurethane foams or synthetic latex, natural latex doesn't require toxic chemicals or chemical flame retardants to meet safety standards. It's also Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified, which means it's safe enough for infant use. When you're spending 8 hours a night on something, using non-toxic, natural materials matters.
Do latex mattresses improve sleep quality?
For sleep quality, natural latex outperforms other mattress materials in several key ways. The open cell structure created during the aeration process allows superior breathability. It doesn't trap heat like memory foam does. I've had customers who were skeptical about this, so I'd swap their latex for polyfoam to test it. Every single time, they called back asking me to put the latex back.
The buoyant support of latex is different from memory foam's slow recovery. When you move at night, latex responds instantly, pushing back into the crevices of your body without that "stuck in quicksand" feeling. This means less partner disturbance and better supportive sleep throughout the night. You're not slowly sinking through the comfort layer as the material warms up and softens.
What is the best natural latex mattress?
The best natural latex mattress isn't an all-latex slab. It's natural latex on pocket springs. I've tested hundreds of configurations, and latex on pocket springs is the combination that consistently works best for the widest range of people.
Here's the thing: all-latex mattresses sound great in theory, but they have a significant problem. Without springs underneath, you don't get enough contouring for pressure relief, especially for side sleepers. Your shoulders don't sink in properly, and you end up with pressure points. That's why I don't sell pure latex mattress slabs.
What are the disadvantages of a latex mattress?
I'm going to be completely honest here. There are real disadvantages to latex, and understanding them helps you make the right choice.
Cost: Natural latex is expensive. It's the most expensive comfort material you can use in a mattress. A high-quality natural latex layer costs significantly more than polyfoam or memory foam. That's because it's tapped from rubber trees, processed by hand, and imported from places like Sri Lanka where it's grown sustainably. But here's the trade-off: it lasts 3-4 times longer, so the cost per year of use is actually lower.
Bounciness: Some people don't like the responsive feel of latex. It's bouncy compared to memory foam's "hug" sensation. That bounciness is actually the latex pushing up into your body's contours. It's doing its job, but if you're used to memory foam, it feels different. About 5-10% of my customers prefer the dead, slow-recovery feel of memory foam, and that's fine. It's personal preference.
All-latex mattresses don't contour properly: This is the biggest disadvantage I see. Those thick all-latex mattress slabs (16cm, 20cm, 24cm) don't have enough point elasticity. Side sleepers especially struggle because their shoulders and hips don't sink in enough, creating pressure points. You need springs underneath to get proper spinal alignment and pressure relief. A spring mattress with latex on top solves this completely.
Weight and handling: A natural latex mattress is heavy. Our mattresses are around 50kg because they contain latex layers, micro springs, and pocket springs. This makes them difficult to move compared to bed-in-a-box foam mattresses. You'll need help during delivery and if you move houses. But this weight is a feature, not a bug. It's the weight of quality, durable mattress materials.
Heat retention in thick layers: If you use too much latex (like those 20cm+ all-latex mattresses), it can trap heat. Natural latex breathes better than foam, but thick layers still absorb body heat. That's why I only use 5cm of latex with ventilation holes, then layer it with micro springs and pocket springs that create airflow. The mattress materials below the latex do the support work.
Requires a proper bed base: Latex mattresses need a solid foundation or closely-spaced slats. Flexible slats will ruin the support and create sagging. If you have a platform bed with wide gaps or bendy slats, you'll need to upgrade. Proper care includes using the right base. There's no way around this.
Not ideal for strict stomach sleepers: Very soft latex can allow stomach sleepers to sink too much, creating poor spinal alignment. They typically need a firmer mattress or medium firm configuration. This isn't unique to latex. Any soft comfort layer has this issue, but it's worth mentioning.
The bottom line: if you want mattress longevity, exceptional comfort, and natural product credentials, natural latex is worth every disadvantage. If you want the absolute cheapest option or you're in the "under 30, under 75kg, can sleep on anything" category, you might be fine with polyfoam. But for most people looking for their last mattress purchase, latex on springs is the answer.
Which is better, natural latex or memory foam?
Natural latex is better, and I'll tell you exactly why.
I've been making mattresses with memory foam, polyfoam, and natural latex on pocket springs for over 12 years. I used memory foam for about 6 years, and it was overwhelmingly terrible. So many issues. I stopped selling it because I couldn't stand the number of problems customers experienced.
Supportive Sleep
For a good night's sleep with proper support, the material needs to maintain its resilience over time. Memory foam softens and loses its supportive feel within 2-3 years, especially around the hip area where you put the most pressure. I physically pull apart old mattresses, and the memory foam is always wrecked while the springs are still perfect.
Natural latex maintains consistent support for 15-20 years. I've yet to see a natural latex layer lose resilience. It's bulletproof. When customers call saying their mattress is sagging, it's never the latex. It's the springs needing to be swapped to a firmer tension. With latex, I don't get calls about dipping or softening comfort layers.
Other Mattresses
Compared to other mattresses and mattress materials, here's how they stack up:
Heat: Memory foam traps heat like crazy. It's temperature-sensitive, softer in summer, firmer in winter. The foam warms up from your body heat and gets progressively softer through the night. Latex has an open cell structure with natural breathability. It doesn't trap heat the same way. I've tested this by swapping latex for polyfoam on skeptical customers. Every single one asked me to put the latex back.
Response time: Memory foam has that slow recovery. You sink in and stay there. Some people like this, but reducing partner disturbance comes at a cost. When you move at night, you're fighting against the foam. Latex responds instantly, providing buoyant support that moves with you. There's some partner disturbance with latex, but it's minimal, and you're not stuck in one position.
Pressure relief: Both materials offer pressure relief, but they do it differently. Memory foam eliminates pressure points by spreading your weight across a larger surface area, but you sink deeper into it. Latex relieves pressure while maintaining support. You're floating on top rather than sinking through. For optimal spinal alignment, latex on springs wins because the springs do the heavy lifting.
Durability: Natural latex lasts 3-4 times longer than memory foam. This isn't marketing. I see it in returned mattresses. Memory foam deteriorates, especially in cheaper density foam. Even premium memory foam (like Tempur) eventually softens. Natural latex from a rubber tree is a natural product that outlasts synthetic foam every time.
Eco-friendly: Memory foam is polyurethane foam, 100% petroleum-based synthetic material. It doesn't biodegrade. It off-gases VOCs when new. Latex is 97% natural rubber from rubber tree sap, processed with minimal additives. It's biodegradable, sustainably harvested, and doesn't contain the same toxic chemicals.
Feel: In blind tests in my showroom, most people prefer the feel of latex over memory foam. About 80-85% of customers choose latex when given the option. Some people genuinely prefer memory foam's dead feel, and that's their personal preference, but the vast majority prefer latex's responsive, luxurious feel.
The only advantage memory foam has is cost and motion isolation. It's cheaper than latex, and it's slightly better at reducing partner disturbance than latex (though not as good as all-foam mattresses or popular mattress-in-a-box options).
If you're shopping for a mattress online or comparing brands, ask what's actually inside. A "latex mattress" might have 1-2cm of 50/50 latex-plastic blend. That's not a real latex mattress. Look for specifications: percentage of natural latex, layer thickness, certifications like GOLS. If they won't tell you the density or composition, assume it's garbage.
The current Cloud, Aurora and Cooper all use 5cm of GOLS-certified natural latex. The Cloud has soft latex and the Aurora medium latex, both over 2 micro spring layers. The Cooper has medium latex over a foam layer for a very firm feel.
About the author
Karl owns Ausbeds. Tired of mattresses that failed too soon, he set up a Sydney workshop to make them properly: honest materials, adjustable designs. He also gives straight mattress advice on Reddit, Whirlpool and OzBargain.
